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Turukeya

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  1. Strick, 1st thing do some thinking about your look or character. If wearing rubber or spandex appeals more. There are plenty of makers for all sorts of suits and parts. Once you have an idea what you want, I'm sure you'll see plenty of options.
  2. Looking forward to seeing what you build
  3. Just painted.
    This design is from makermakeisan on cults3d.  I'll leave a link. It's personal use license.  This was the 4 main parts version and the print wasn't to good so I patched, dremeled a bit of texture where damaged and left off the horns.
    It was painted with gold rust oleum followed by washes in black and turquoise.

    20240205_023009.thumb.jpg.ba44c2a02db35ac1516d1dffdccd0653.jpg20240205_022948.thumb.jpg.e065e62889b60abdc9b6f4b0234de9fa.jpg20240205_023000.thumb.jpg.bbcf569c333f6d235d4ecb2dec13939c.jpg20240205_022943.thumb.jpg.aec29874f97e5b519a7e2fa62557e2d2.jpg

    Https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/wolf-predator-bio-mask-in-four-parts-for-small-printers

  4. Just finished painting this city hunter bio sculpted by Juliette Skye.  She's @ Julisk0 on eBay and under her name on instagram.  She went by Mysteria on the old lair. https://www.ebay.com/usr/julisk0


    I started with high gloss silver followed by gold.  Next came sponged acrylic gold and copper. Then followed up with a thick brown wash then black one wiped off at about 1 minute.  Last was a medium to thin  consistency wash of turquoise allowed to drip as it wanted and barely dabbed then a thinner one drizzled on, allowed to drip and dry.

    One thing... I did have a problem with some thick dripped gold rust oleum spray at the beginning that didn't dry for days right at the bottom of the chin front.  My fix was scraping off (wall spackle style) with a razorblade then add a thin coat.

    20240204_223407.jpg

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  5. Damn, that's a lot of freehand spots.
  6. I don't have pics but have done it. Here's some useful rules: Platinum rarely sticks to anything other than partially cured or fresh platinum. Tin sticks to pretty much any silicone and can do so in deep pieces. Acetoxy without added glycerine sticks to nearly anything especially other silicones but not to urethane. Knowing that here are some frugal options. 1. Beauty coats with full coverage in platinum or tin wherever appropriate then add 1/4“ of pure acetoxy like ge1 100% per day or 2 days til desired thickness. No glycerine so no affect on bonding. 2. Beauty coats in platinum or tin in a box. Let fully cure. then pour in some tin cure and carefully push in cured chunks of acetoxy as backfill for a block mold. The key is let each type cure before switching and never go back to platinum once the other types are used. I don't have any molds planned soon but if anyone has the stuff, I have something for you to try on small scale. Squeeze strips of ge1 on wax paper and cure. Coat a small item in platinum and cure fully. Build a small box, fill part way with mixed tin cure and backfill your acetoxy strips. The fun part will be dissecting the mold to see everything bonded well. Always add backfill by hand rather than pouring on top to minimize air entrapment. Sorry no pics. Ohhhh.... One more thing. If you mix half of one of the 50cent acrylic bottles well into 10 oz of pure acetoxy it doesn't stick as well anymore but you have to mix well for that. I've coated a skull with red. One done with acrylic peels off. One done with spray paint in the silicone became permanent. This was once s beer bong and hard foam insulation.
  7. That P2 with the top knot and blue/white/red dreads is still my favorite. I remember when the guy getting the Ahab posted about his previous costume and I showed him your work. You took no time making a work of art for him.
  8. It's the glycerin in the acrylic paint that attracts water so in turn oxygen to react with the silicone. If you use too much it makes it not stick anymore. On the subject of adding paint to ge1 100% silicone caulk, you can use a very little spray paint without changing the curing or sticking properties like I did with red to pat down my skull and spine made out of a funnel (beer bong) for fresh blood. Another trick to make molds cheaply is use a small kit of an expensive silicone for your beauty coat and second coat. Let your completely. Then add both layers with ge1 at no thicker than a quarter inch per coat. Let each coat completely cure a day or two before putting a new one.
  9. Hi. I think I was Turuk'eya on the original site and Fayne on theRPF. I think I joined around 2010 and had some pages on bios I was sculpting. I only finished 1 of 3 as life got in the way then after yrs a semi decided to plow through my car. I'm finally doing some suits. I got a P2esque one from predatrhuntr @ nightmarefx on Etsy and the last p1 from corefx/predatorskin before he stopped making them. Not sure who got the molds. I have a lot to do for these 2 characters but these guys got me well on my way. The wolf bio I was sculpting is still around and I really like the shape so it's likely gonna be its own thing instead of wolf and finally get done 2024. Fingers crossed. Doing a set of hurried hands for the P2 just to get him done with the plan of making better ones after the suits are done. Left hand has 2 colors of rubber so far and both will have a lot left to do even as a hurry job.
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